Highlands of Gjakova

The Gjakova Highlands are characterised by alpine landscapes, deep valleys, vertical cliffs, dense coniferous and deciduous forests, small lakes and rivers. The levels of vegetation in the Albanian Alps meet the alpine level, from upland valleys through the montane mountain stage on forest-free alpine and subalpine mats and subnivale tundra caused by permafrost in vast heaps of rubble with raw soils.

In view of phytogeography, the Valbonë Valley National Park falls within the Dinaric Mountains mixed forests terrestrial ecoregion of the Palearctic temperate broadleaf and mixed forest. The forests of the park are covered by a mixture of deciduous and coniferous trees growing on limestone and dolomite, which is characteristic to the Albanian Alps. The most typical feature of the park's landscape is represented by its forests being a major resource in terms of their ecological functions, as well as in terms of the beauty they lend to the landscape. The pine is one of the most common species of tree in the park. The area, which is dotted with pine, is mainly overgrown with austrian, balkan, bosnian and scots pine.[8][9][10][11] The area around the village of Valbona is characterized by the predominance of different beech species such as european beech.[12] The park is, however, considered to be the only area in the country, where a high number of forest formations with norway spruce can be found.[13] A lush mixed forest occurs in the upper part of the valley represented with a mixture of silver fir, common beech, norway spruce and scots pine.

The banks of Valbona River are covered mainly with forests of grey alder, olive willow and goat willow.[9] Besides, the park contains boglands, which are situated in the wet low lying environments whereas various species of narthecium, carex and sphagnum can be found.[9] The steep slopes and ravines of the Valbona Valley are home to communities of largeleaf linden, sycamore, ash and wych elm, which grow mostly in cool and humid locations.[9]

Similarly, the Nikaj-Mërtur Regional Nature Park falls within the Dinaric Mountains mixed forests terrestrial ecoregion of the Palearctic temperate broadleaf and mixed forest biome.[14] The vegetation of the park includes many communities of a Mediterranean and Eurasian type. It is covered by a mixture of oak, beech and pine trees growing on limestone and dolomite, which is characteristically to the Alps. The most widespread floral communities of oak are dominated by italian oak, austrian oak, sessile oak and macedonian oak. The beech and pine trees are represented by species such as european beech, bosnian pine and austrian pine.[15]

The climate of the Gashi Nature Reserve is subarctic and oceanic, having cool summers and generally cold winters. Forests occupy the majority of the region's area. The region falls within the Balkan mixed forests and Dinaric Mountains mixed forests terrestrial ecoregion of the Palearctic temperate broadleaf and mixed forests biome. The river is particularly known for the diversity of flora and fauna and is surrounded by swamps and canals that drain the whole local basin such as the region of Malësia e Gashit within the Albanian Alps into the Adriatic sea. Forests occupy the majority of the total area. The diverse flora is characterized with high endemism due to the combination of southern geographic latitude and high altitude variation. The forests are host to several plants such as beech, macedonian pine, bosnian pine, norway spruce, and silver fir.

Due to the temperature and climate differences between different areas and elevations, the Valbonë Valley National Park is characterized by exceptionally rich and varied fauna. The park represents one of the most important national bio centers of wild fauna in the country. The wider land area is one of the last areas in Europe, in which a great number of brown bears and grey wolves can be found.[16] The park is potentially a habitat for the endangered lynx.[16] One of the park's special attractions is the existence of the rare chamois, which can be found at higher altitudes far from human activity.[17] Most important wildlife inhabiting the Valbona Valley include roe deer and wild boar.[18] We can also witness the presence of western western capercaillie and golden eagle.[18]

The endangered brown bear still survive within the boundaries of the park.

Sources of water, becks and glacial lakes are the basis of life for water insects, amphibians, and salmons. Species of fish are represented with species such as the marble trout and river trout.[19] The limited number of species is determined by the predominant bodies of water including glacial lakes, streams and upper river courses, which are inhabited by fish species.

Due to its strategic position and the mosaic distribution of various types of habitats, the park is quite rich of bird genera. The total number of bird species is 145.[20] Important birds of prey with high conservation value include the golden eagle, booted eagle, egyptian vulture, sparrowhawk, goshawk, lanner falcon, saker falcon, peregrine falcon and honey buzzard. The park hosts seven species and populations owls, such as the barn owl, scops owl, eagle owl, little owl, tawny owl, long-eared owl and short-eared owl. Other families of birds inhabiting the park include the alpine swift, alpine accentor, great cormorant, grey heron, rock partridge, common ringed plover, stock dove, common cuckoo and eurasian golden oriole.[20]

The Nikaj-Mërtur Regional Nature Park features a great variety of ecosystems and shelters wildlife. It dwells a number of various species that are fast becoming rare in Southern Europe, with animals such as the eurasian lynx which inhabits the rugged forested areas, the endangered brown bear and gray wolf. Moreover, the woods provide also shelter for species including chamois, western capercaillie and griffon vulture. The park is an important sanctuary of the peregrine falcon and common kestrel.[14]

The fauna of the Gashi Nature Reserve is represented by 64 species of mammals, such as the brown bear, gray wolf, chamois, lynx, roe deer, wild boar, western capercaillie, golden eagle, eurasian otter and 14 species of amphibians.[21][22]

The Krasniqi tribal territory is situated in the District of Tropoja, north of the Drin River from Fierza eastwards to the district of Has. It borders Montenegro to the north, the Nikaj and Mërturi tribes to the west, the Bytyqi to the southeast and the Gashi to the northeast. The Krasniqi traditionally consisted of two bajraks; Dragobia in the Valbona Valley, and Bujan (between Bajram Curri and Fierza). They were believed to have arrived in their present region sometime after 1600, driving the Gashi eastwards and the Thaçi westwards, and the tribe can be traced to a common ancestor by the name of Kolë Mekshi. Their settlements within the Gjakova Highlands include:[29]

The Gashi tribal territory is situated eastwards of Bajram Curri in the District of Tropoja to the western parts of the District of Gjakova. Much of their tribal territory corresponds to the Llugaj and Bushtrica river valleys. They border the Krasniqi to the west and the Bytyqi to the south, over the Luzha Pass (Qafa e Luzhës), and they possessed summer pasturelands east of Vuthaj in present-day Montenegro. The Gashi are believed to have been formed by the amalgamation of the smaller Shipshani, Bardhi and Luzha tribes, and are believed to have moved to their current area sometime around 1660. Their settlements within the Gjakova Highlands include:[30][31][32]

The Bytyqi tribal territory is situated in the southeastern Gjakova Highlands. It borders Gashi to the northwest, Krasniqi to the southwest, Hasi to the south and Morina to the east. Bytyqi territory consists of a plain surrounded by low hills and the high mountain pastures of Sylbica. The tribe traces their lineage back to the ancestral father Lekë Bytyqi, who initially hailed from the are around Koman, but another similar legend traces them back to the Shkreli tribe. Their settlements within the Gjakova Highlands include:[33][34]

The Nikaj tribal territory is situated north of the Drin River and in the present-day western parts of the District of Tropoja. It borders Shala to the west, Krasniqja to the north and east and Mërturi to the south. They live primarily on the western side of the Curraj/Nikaj river. They trace their origins to the ancestral father Nikë Mekshi, a herdsman from Krasniqi who left at around 1550-1600 and settled in presently Nikaj territory, where they replaced the local Mavriqi tribe. Their settlements within the Gjakova Highlands include:[35][36]

The Mërturi tribal territory is situated north and south of the Drin River, west of Fierza in the Districts of Tropoja and Puka. It borders Shoshi to the west, Nikaj to the north, Krasniqi and Thaçi to the east, Berisha to the south and Toplana to the southwest. The tribe traces their origins to the ancestral father Lek Poga, brother to the ancestral father of the Berisha - Kol Poga - and as such were considered one tribe. The Mërturi would separate 1520 and move northwards to their current regions. Their settlements within the Gjakova Highlands include:[37][38]

The Morina tribal territory is situated along the current Albania-Kosovo border. It borders Gashi to the north and west, Bytyqi to the southwest and Hasi to the south. Their territory is mostly within Kosovo, corresponding to Qafë Morinë, the village of Morinë itself within Kosovo and the surrounding areas. They are believed to trace common origin with the Mirdita tribe, who in turn trace their origins to the Pashtrik Mountain on the Kosovo-Albanian border. It is likely the Morina tribe remained in the area whilst the Mirdita tribe migrated westwards.[39][40]